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soups

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup

Beef noodle soup is a dish found in many Chinese restaurants and Taiwanese boba (bubble tea) cafés. It is said to have originated from the Hui people, a Chinese Muslim ethnic group, during the Tang Dynasty of China. It was brought to Taiwan by veterans who fled from Mainland China during the Chinese civil war. The addition of soy sauce later differentiated the Taiwanese version of the broth from the original.

Every winter many of us gather around the table to chow down on our friend Joey’s famous beef noodle soup. He brings all his ingredients up to a cabin in Mammoth to make this warm and delicious concoction for all the hungry skiers after a day on the slopes. Joey starts the prep the evening before, skis during the day, and lets the beef simmer in the broth for hours. By dinner time we have the most tender, falling-apart meat possible.

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Beef noodle soup is a favorite of my husband’s and mine, so I am grateful that Joey was willing to share this recipe with us that was taught to him by his mother.

So here it is in Joey’s words:

Ingredients:

  • beef shank
  • roma tomato
  • carrot
  • ginger
  • baby bok choy
  • cooking oil
  • soy sauce
  • soy paste
  • chilies in oil
  • noodles

(Amounts to follow the recipe)

Kitchenware:

  • sauté pan or any wide surface pan
  • stockpot or large pot
  • tongs
  • spoons

Shopping and planning:

I like going to 99 Ranch Market (Chinese Supermarket, but any market should be fine) because they have a butcher in the back that helps me cut the beef shank (tough meat to cut at home). Have them cut it into bite-sized pieces (stew meat size) or you'll have to do a little more work at home.

Chinese Supermarkets also have the soy sauce, soy paste, and jar of chilies in oil that I like to use.

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Ratios:

  • Buy a half pound of beef shank per person. 10 people = 5 pounds of meat.
  • Buy 1 medium tomato + 1 medium carrot + 1 handful of baby bok choy + 1-inch ginger root for every 1 pound of meat.
  • 5 pounds of meat = 5 tomato = 5 carrots = 5 handfuls of baby bok choy + a 5-inch ginger root.
  • Buy a neutral tasting high smoke point oil to sear the meat like canola, grapeseed, vegetable, etc.
  • Buy soy sauce, soy paste, and a jar of chilies in oil.
  • Buy noodles that are predominately enriched wheat flour + water + egg + salt mix.
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Directions:

1. Crack open a beer or pour yourself a glass of wine for your cooking extravaganza.

2. Cut the meat, give it a quick rinse, and let it drain in a colander.

3. Peel your ginger root and slice diagonally into 1/4 inch thick and 1-2 inch long pieces.

4. Set whatever pan you like to use to medium-high heat and add a little oil to sear the meat until golden brown.

5. Add one slice of ginger with the meat to brown a little.

6. When the second side is about to finish searing, add a teaspoon of the chilies in oil and let that fry for a little bit.

7. Deglaze the fond with soy sauce and transfer the mixture into a large stockpot.

8. Completely deglaze with some water and add that delicious fond to the large stock pot.

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9. Repeat steps 1-8 until all the meat has been beautifully browned and added to the large stock pot.

10. Alright. Most of the hard work has been done!

11. The large stockpot should have enough water to cover the meat because we've been deglazing with water.

12. If there isn't enough water, then add water to cover the meat and bring to a simmer.

13. Peel carrots and cut diagonally into 1/4 inch thick and 1-2 inch long pieces and add to stockpot.

14. Cut tomatoes into 1/8ths and add to stockpot. Make sure to cut out the stem scar because it's ugly.

15. Add some water to fully submerge the beef + tomato + carrot mix.

16. Bring to a boil and taste for seasoning. Too salty? Add water. Too bland? Add soy sauce. Too gamey? Add soy paste (for the sugar). Not spicy enough? Add another teaspoon of chilies.

17. Simmer for at least 6 hours or until beef is tender.

18. Check every hour because the water level will drop and you'll need to add water back.

19. Bring back up to a boil and adjust seasoning again if needed.

20. I like to periodically skim some of the scum off.

21. When the stew is all done, then cook noodles according to instructions.

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22. Blanch the bok choy in the hot water and we're all done!

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For Serving:

Add noodles to a bowl, place the bok choy on top, and ladle the soup all over.

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Optional:

  1. You can get crosscut beef shank that includes a piece of the femur to add additional beef flavor + yummy bone marrow.
  2. A little minced garlic and onion is usually added while browning the meat.
  3. Garnish with sliced scallions/chopped cilantro/chopped pickled mustard greens is popular.
  4. A mixture of star anise/cinnamon stick/whole black peppercorn/fennel seed/cumin seeds are also frequently added.

I don’t usually do the optional stuff because I like to keep it simple. :-)

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Top 5 Soups

It's almost "officially" winter in Southern California.  Winter to us means sunny, yet chilly; an occasional rainfall to make it feel colder, then a new day of beautiful sunshine again; but cold enough for us to sport cool winter scarves and trendy UGG looking boots.  It is also flu season with all this weather change.  This is why I'm home writing about my favorite soups that keep me warm.  

I'm a soup person.  There are many out there that just are not, but my friend Tay and I are definitely soup people.  She's my soup buddy.  She recently made me a pot of  "Zuppa Toscana" and I told her it made it to my top five.  I had some today and the spiciness of the black pepper actually soothed my throat a bit.  If this soup sounds familiar to you, it's the soup they serve at Olive Garden.  I know you're thinking she probably bought it, but I promise you, she made it--and it's really good. 

Anyway, my top five soup list also includes Roasted Tomato Basil soup.  It sounds boring, but it's something that I sometimes make myself because I have such a love for tomatoes.  Juice, salads, sauces, etc.  You name it, if tomato is in it, I'll at least try it.  A quick substitute would be Ralphs, Vons, or Safeway soups that you can scoop up at their store.  2 for $5 sometimes.  Heat it up and serve.  Pick up some soup crackers on the side while you're at it. 

My dad's beef stew.  Full of beef and vegetables that have been stewing overnight.  I once read an excerpt from Ramona Quimby (I think it was Age 8), where she describes her parents' beef stew (or was it veg?--well, it was a stew), simmering in the crock pot all day and all night.  The aroma that fills up your house is so savory and sweet it just makes your mouth water.  Yum!

Chicken Tortilla Soup.  Being from Southern California, you will try several versions everywhere, including my own.  I have to say, I like the brothy kind that I make with shredded leftover chicken (from the Albertsons or Costco chicken that someone brings home from time to time) with corn and avocado pieces topped with crunchy tortilla strips. (Not because I make it, but because I can adjust it to how I'd like it to be).  Some places make it too watery with less of a chicken broth flavor.   However, California Pizza Kitchen has a version of their own that I enjoy as well.  It's more cheesy and they blend everything together.  Depending on your mood, I'd go for either. 

All these soups have one thing in common for me, they have a little spice from the pepper or they have some red pepper flakes cooked into them, with the exception of the beef stew. 

Well, that's only four.  Oh yes, how could I forget!  Hot and Sour Soup from the Chinese restaurants.  It has to be a really great balance between spicy and acidic though.  Too much spice takes away its enjoyability and too much acid or vinegar just makes it sour.  Oh and I also don't like it if there are Chinese black mushrooms in it.  The vegetarian restaurant and Sam Woo seem to have it down.   When I was an extern and wanted some hot and sour soup, I'd go and buy those instant powder packs at the Chinese market in Chinatown, San Francisco.  Hot water, some scallions, and an egg and I was good to go!  Instant gratification. 

In case you're wondering what's after 5 because I know you're just so intrigued, it would be chili. I know it's not really a soup because it's so chunky it's practically a whole meal, but restaurants categorize it under soup, so I will too.  A few months ago, I started making vegetarian chili, which actually turned out to be pretty yummy.  You just substitute frozen tofu and crumble it in as if it were the ground meat!  Ingenious. 

My friend Christine's Vegetable Soup.  I have no idea what she really puts in there.  My friends and I have all tried to replicate it.  It all turned out like the porridge that Goldilocks had...too watery, too thick, too bland, etc...well, her secret is safe with her in Africa.  Hopefully, she's making it for her Peace Corp family right now.

Culinary Memory: Cream Soup

Culinary Memory: Cream Soup

I have a very distinct memory of when I had my first experience with what I thought was fancy cuisine.  My family and I were checked into the Nikko Narita Hotel in Japan (I believe today it is renamed the Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba) on our stop over on our way to the Philippines for a summer vacation.  I must have been about six or eight or something.  The hotel offered us complimentary tickets for dinner at any of the restaurants (mind you, this was the 80's...before they started charging for every single thing).  I just remember my dad and I going to the top floor (4th?)--I think it was the Rainbow Restaurant...or I'm just making that up...Anyway, it was fancy, which meant servers in tuxedos and soup in a shallow bowl and being extremely careful when drinking the soup.  They had nice linen napkins--not those paper dispenser kind.  The soup was cream of...I think I went twice--as far as I can remember because once, I think the soup was green and another time, orange. (peas and carrots Jenny?)  Also, the servers poured the soup from a gravy boat into your bowl to serve you and after the pouring, would come the plopping of little tiny perfectly shaped cubes of croutons.  I always asked for a few more. Duh!  Anyway, this soup--it was just the beginning!

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